How to Teach "Leave It"

In nature, animals often use aggressive threats to prevent others from stealing their possessions. With our pet dogs, however, aggression toward owners is often deemed inappropriate and even dangerous. This resource guarding can be exhibited along a continuum of intensity. A dog may freeze, for example, holding her head low over the food when the owner approaches. She may eat faster with wider gulping motions, growl or give a “hard stare”. At increasing levels of intensity, she may snarl, snap, or bite the owner. Dogs may become possessive over things other than food, such as stolen household items, bones, toys, or sticks.

To prevent resource guarding, your dog should be taught the Leave It command. This command is used to tell your dog that she may earn something even better from you for leaving something she might be tempted to steal and/or guard. To teach the Leave It, begin with a piece of kibble or other relatively boring edible item. Arm yourself with a bowl or treat pouch full of more highly-valued food items, such as tiny pieces of hot dog or chicken. Sit down on the floor with your dog and place the boring food item (the “forbidden” item) on the floor in front of you. As you do so, say “Leave It” in a firm but kind voice and cover the item with your hand. If your dog tries to nose or paw at your hand to get at the food item, hold your hand tight over the item until she quits trying. One second after she quits trying and instead pulls her head away from your hand, praise happily and deliver a treat from your pouch and simultaneously pick up the forbidden food.

Your dog will soon learn not to even try to nose at the food item on the ground. As soon as you place the item down and say “Leave It”, she will look up at you or toward your other hand. Praise and treat when she does. Next, remove your hand a bit from the boring food item on the floor. If she goes toward it, repeat the “Leave It” command and cover the food item. When she looks at you instead, praise and treat from your other hand.

When you can put the forbidden food item on the ground and move your hand away without your dog trying to go after it, begin to move your body away as well. Always say “Leave It” when you place the item on the ground, then move slowly away, praising and treating after gradually increasing periods of time during which your dog is not looking at the item and is instead looking in your direction. Move slowly with this – you always want to be sure you get to the item before she can steal it if she tries!

When you can leave that item on the floor and walk away from it, begin to vary the forbidden item. Try different items from your fridge (e.g., bread, a potato), a dog toy or ball, always being sure to have something more desirable in your treat pouch. Once she is successfully leaving alone a variety of items on the floor, begin to casually drop items from your standing position as you say “Leave It”. Be ready to step on the item if she goes for it. If she does not, praise and treat as usual. Your dog should be learning to walk away from any item as soon as you say “Leave It” while keeping her eyes on you and following you around in expectation of something better. Then try leaving the room with the forbidden item left out. Your dog should be following you out of the room at this point.

When she can do this, begin carrying food treats in your pocket throughout the day to find naturalistic moments to ask her to Leave It. Approach her while she is chewing a bone or toy. Say Leave It when you get to her and offer her a treat from one hand as you remove the item with your other hand. Praise and return the item to her if it’s hers and if she’s allowed to continue chewing it. You can use this when she has stolen something that is not hers, although you want to be sure you are trading her for treats more often each day for her own items than you are trading her for stolen items, lest she learn that the best way to earn treats is to steal something that’s not hers!

As she becomes more reliable with this, continue to issue the Leave It command in various situations throughout the day and praise every time she does so. Over the next month or so, instead of providing a treat every time, try providing a treat only about 75% of the time. For a month after that, provide the treat only about half the time (while still praising every time). In the third month, provide a treat only 25% of the time. After that, provide a treat in exchange for her item just every once in a while, but continue to praise enthusiastically every time. Your dog should by then be happily looking up at you when you approach her as she is chewing a bone or toy, or eating from her food bowl. Her tail might even be wagging as she readily looks away from her valued resource, always hoping you’ve got something even better to bestow upon her!

 

How Dogs Use Facial Expressions and Body Posture to Communicate with Us

I wrote last month about how we can interpret dogs’ tail wags to best determine whether they are happy, comfortable, nervous, or potentially aggressive. Because the tail is only one piece of a dog’s communication system, we must also consider facial expressions and overall body positioning to get the clearest sense of a dog’s intentions. This month, I turn to these other body language signals that dogs use to communicate with each other and with us.

We are rarely confused when we encounter a dog whose lips are curled back exposing a set of menacing white teeth. The dog’s snarl is a frightening scene, as it is designed to be, and most humans and other dogs know to back off in this situation. Similarly, most of us are immediately sympathetic to a dog who is hunkered down and trembling, as we recognize these as signs of fear. Other facial expressions and body postures are less obvious however. For example, when a dog is guarding a valued resource like a bone and trying to let you know that she doesn’t want to share, you might see just a subtle lowering of the head and what’s sometimes called a “whale eye”, when the dog stares into the middle distance between her bone and you, with eyes angled such that you can see the whites of the eye. She might even turn her head away altogether, but hold her neck low over the bone, waiting to snap when you reach for it or touch her.

When dogs are happy and relaxed, we often see an almond-shape or squinted eye, often associated with an open mouth, tongue hanging out, and ears forward or casually out to the sides. As dogs become more nervous or defensive, the mouth will close, the ears may pin back or move sharply forward (depending on the circumstances), and the eyes will become rounder. In some cases, owners can detect the difference between a “hard stare” and a soft gaze, the former being the face they might see before aggression occurs, and the latter they might see when, for example, doing Sit/Stay training, playing, or snuggling with their dog. For owners whose dogs sometimes show aggression, being able to distinguish between a hard and soft stare is very important for being able to manage and treat aggressive behavior.

I wrote last month about how dogs use their tails in some cases to make themselves look bigger (when feeling threatened or when advertising potential for aggression). They can use the rest of their bodies for similar purposes. In particular, if your dog is prone to aggression toward other dogs, you might notice that he immediately expands his neck and chest, rising up and forward a bit, as soon as he sees a dog at a distance. Often this stiffening body posture is associated with the stiffening facial expression and hard stare described above. Once this dog reaches another dog for a nose to nose encounter, body language plays a big role in determining how that interaction will go. If he and the other dog engage in mutual rear-end sniffing and curious circling without much eye contact and without stiff posturing, many will soon break into wiggly greeting behavior characterized by open mouth, softened body tone, and swishy tail. If one or the other, however, jumps around nervously, refusing to allow his rear end to be sniffed, or jumps on the other, snaps, or shows teeth early in the greeting, then a fight is more likely to erupt during that encounter. In some cases, a dog may remain very stiff while another dog conveys loose and wiggly body language. The dog who is holding his body stiff and still is more likely to snap, growl, or bite if the other dog remains overly interested in sniffing, circling, or trying to play with him.

Body stillness in general is a commonly overlooked characteristic of canine communication. I often find myself cringing in public situations when I see a dog on leash with its owners, being introduced to new people, especially children. Specifically, I am alarmed when I see a dog standing still, sometimes looking or leaning away, eyebrows furrowed nervously, or standing stiff and straight, eyes focused in a direct stare, while children or well-meaning adults loom around the dog, petting and patting him with abandon. Neither the greeters nor the pet owner seem to notice that the dog is doing everything she can to convey that she is uncomfortable with that interaction. In some cases, a dog might remain uncomfortable time and again without going any further; in other cases, such a dog might turn to growling, snapping, or biting to communicate its desire to move away from these situations.

We live closely with dogs – our own and those in the community around us. Thus, it behooves all of us to educate ourselves on dogs’ body language and facial expressions so as to reduce the prevalence of dog bites and to enhance the well-being of our dogs as well.

Interpreting Dogs' Tails and the Tales they Tell

“But I don’t understand why she bit me, Doc! She was wagging her tail the whole time…” If I had a dog biscuit for every time I’ve heard this lament from a client, I could open up my own doggie bakery!

From the time we were small, most of us have been taught that a wagging tail means a friendly dog, and some of us have unfortunately learned the hard way that this is not always the case. A dog’s tail is a very important part of his or her communication system, serving sometimes as a beacon (“Come see me!” or “Keep petting!”) and sometimes as a warning (“Proceed with caution!” or “Back away!”) Dogs use their tails to communicate with each other and also with us and an understanding of what a tail can tell can sometimes prevent a dog bite. After all, if we all learned to read dogs’ body language expertly, dogs wouldn’t need to rely on ever more dramatic forms of communication for us to get the picture!

From a distance, a dog’s tail can convey its size, and size matters an awful lot in the animal kingdom! Whether in communications between predator and potential prey or between members of the same species, a bigger animal is often a safer animal. Thus, when dogs see each other from a distance, many of them raise their tail high above the line of their back, into an arc shape and wagging stiffly. In fact, it’s been suggested that many mixed-breed dogs have evolved markings that include a different colored tip to their tail precisely because this salient flash of color serves as a marker of a dog’s size from a distance.

As dogs approach one another or us and interact more closely, other signs become important in communicating the dogs’ intentions. Let’s review two telling tail features that we should be tuned in to.

Tail height. We should pay attention to how high the dog is carrying his tail. As mentioned above, dogs often carry their tail high when trying to convey size. This reflexive attempt to look bigger is likely to arise in situations where a dog is unsure about what’s to come (e.g., when approaching an unknown dog/person or when unsure how another dog/person is going to respond in a greeting situation.) If a dog continues to hold her tail high and stiff during a greeting, it may convey a general unease with the interaction or a readiness to become aggressive.

When the tail is held low or tucked between the legs, most of us recognize that a dog is timid or frightened. This might be seen in a puppy when first meeting new adult dogs or in dogs with a limited socialization history when meeting new people. It also can be seen in otherwise relaxed dogs who suddenly become frightened. The low tail is designed to communicate that the dog is no threat but is at least mildly uncomfortable. If a person continues to interact with an overly fearful dog, the dog may feel the need to move to other defensive responses, which can include snapping or biting.

A tail that is carried somewhere in the middle, especially when swishing side to side with a wiggle to the hip signals friendly intentions and an interest in greeting. Because the swish of that tail is so important to an understanding of intention, let’s move right into the second telling tail sign.

Tail movement. When a tail is stiff and held high, in what is called the flagpole position, we should proceed with caution, as this may indicate the possibility of aggression. In fact, this is the tail position most commonly associated with the misunderstanding I started with above. Specifically, a person may pass a dog on its property who is standing with flagpole tail and the tail might even be “wagging” stiffly side to side. If the person continues to approach or tries to pet the dog, the dog may move to growling, barking, snapping, or biting. From the dog’s perspective, the stiff and high tail was meant to communicate something like, “Stay where you are or continue on your way – I am uncomfortable with your presence!” If the person sees a stiff wag in that tail and assumes the dog wants to say hello, the dog may feel compelled to use other (sometimes more aggressive) ways to communicate.

The ideal tail wag we should be looking for if our intention is to pet a dog, or that we hope to see when dogs are greeting each other, is the swishy wag that is either soft and relaxed with the tail in a flattened “S” shape behind the back or so wiggly that the whole back end is moving side to side along with it. This latter tail wag is the one we’re most likely to see when our own dogs greet us or when most puppies greet, well, anyone they meet! As dogs mature into adulthood, some become more selective in their full wiggle presentation, saving it for those they are closest to, while other dogs spend a lifetime wiggling for anyone who might even consider reaching down to pet them.

We must also consider that, through breeding or tail docking, some dogs have tails whose shape makes it more difficult to read (e.g., a Pug’s corkscrew or a Husky’s sickle-shaped tail) while other dogs have no tail at all! In these cases, we must look to other body language indicators to understand a dog’s intention. We will turn to some of these indicators in next month’s column.

In the meantime, keep in mind - a tail has a tale to tell and our dogs sure hope we are paying attention!

Crate Training Done Right

I worked with a client recently who had just adopted a young dog from a shelter. She had been advised to use the crate but was reluctant. She described it as many clients have over the years by saying “I hate to crate him while I am at work all day. I don’t want him to be confined like that or feel like he’s being punished.” I frequently get questions from dog owners about crate training. Some are wondering how to begin crate training their new puppy. Some wonder whether they can successfully crate train an adult dog with housetraining difficulties, destructive tendencies, or separation distress. Some, like my client above, are put off by the crate altogether and wonder whether there are other options.

The crate can indeed be a useful tool. In fact, for puppies and adult dogs who aren’t yet housetrained or who exhibit separation anxiety, the crate is in some cases essential. Here are some tips on how to best introduce your dog to a crate.

The crate should be large enough that the dog can stand comfortably with at least a couple of inches above his head. He also should be able to turn around and lie down comfortably. For housetraining purposes, the crate should not be so large that he can comfortably urinate or defecate in one corner and sleep in another. (One of the uses of crate training is to house train, as it often takes advantage of the dog’s “denning instinct”, or tendency to keep his immediate resting area clean of urine and feces.) The two guiding principles of successful crate training are gradual exposures to the crate and positive associations with the crate. Neither of these strategies is necessarily easy to implement (much of dog raising, as in child rearing, requires time and energy), but both are well worth the effort in creating a dog who enters the crate happily, rests in the crate peacefully, and exits the crate calmly. 

To begin positive exposures, put your dog into his crate for just about 5 minutes at a time as you sit on the floor next to it. Provide him with a chew bone or toy (one that he is actively interested in chewing on throughout the 5-minute period), or provide a bite-sized treat about every 30 seconds through the bars of the crate. After 5 min, open the crate and remove his toy or bone as you call him out. Repeat about once every hour. (It is helpful to sleep next to your pup’s crate in the beginning as well, and to move further away each night over the first few nights until you are sleeping in your own bed.) Each day you should increase the amount of time the dog is in the crate by about 2-3 minutes during these training exposures, and you should begin to move a few inches further away from the dog each day while he is crated for these exercises. Continue to provide either continuous access to a yummy chew bone or provide a treat about once every 30-60 seconds while he is crated. Providing a chew bone often allows owners to move more quickly through this phase of training because the chew bone will consume the dog’s attention continuously during these important early crate exposures.

By providing something to chew on or eat in the crate, your dog will come to associate crate time with access to this delectable item (one he should get at no other time of day). By sticking by him initially and moving away from the crate only gradually, you will gently teach your dog to remain calm even when separated from family members.

As with most pet behavior problems, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. That is, it is much easier to crate train a new puppy than it is to crate train an adult dog with an unknown or, worse yet, negative history of misguided crate training attempts. In cases such as this, or with dogs who are suffering from separation distress, aggression, or other behavior problems, more sophisticated crate training techniques must be used and owners should contact a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or board certified veterinary behaviorist for assistance in these cases.  

What about owners’ concerns about excessive confinement in the crate? Certainly, puppies should not be kept in the crate for long periods at first. But they can be taught to be crated happily for longer periods as their bladder and bowel control develop. As adults, many dogs sleep most or all of the day when home alone anyway, saving most of their energy and animation for when their owners return home. So when the crate can be introduced correctly, and when it can be used to prevent destructive or anxious tendencies, then I say “Kennel up, K9s!”

Socialization Strategies for your Dog

Anyone who has acquired a puppy is likely to have heard that they must socialize extensively during the first year of life. “Bring your puppy with you on outings,” owners are told, “to the park, on city streets, through neighborhoods. Introduce your puppy to cars and bikes and kids and cats and skateboards and wheelchairs and cows and…” Whew! Sounds like these first-year pups have an awfully busy schedule ahead of them! While it is absolutely important for puppies to be exposed to a variety of stimuli while they are young, proper socialization involves more than simply putting puppies into situations where they encounter these things. Owners should utilize a few strategies to ensure that socialization accomplishes its goals, which are to teach a developing dog to be calm, relaxed, and well-behaved in public situations and to reduce the likelihood of fearful or aggressive responses to common stimuli that the dog may encounter throughout its life.

The first key strategy is to watch and know your own dog. You must be attuned to how your puppy is responding to the social situations into which you are placing him or her. By disposition or due to prior learning experiences, some pups are much more timid, fearful, or shy than others. We often imagine puppies as we see them in dog food commercials: tongue-flapping, hip-wiggling furballs falling all over themselves to say hello to every person, dog, and butterfly on their horizon. Indeed, many puppies are exactly like this. Others, however, hide behind their owner’s leg when they see a person, freeze or urinate submissively when they are greeted by a dog, and would nearly jump out of their own skin should a butterfly come along! To arrange socialization experiences that proceed at the best pace for your puppy as described next, you must first be observant and sensitive to his or her disposition and responses from the outset. 

You should set up social experiences in graded steps that reflect your puppy’s personality and behavior. If you notice that your puppy seems timid or fearful in new situations, you should move more slowly and deliberately in terms of the intensity of exposure than you would if your puppy is always jolly and exuberant. Pay attention to your puppy’s approach versus retreat behavior and other body language indicators. When he sees a new person, for example, does your pup pull mightily on the leash, tail wagging wide enough that it shakes his whole rear end, perhaps with some excited whimpering and attempts to jump up as the person approaches? Or does she lower her body a bit, stiffening or tucking her tail, looking away from the other person or retreating behind you as the person approaches? If yours is the full-speed-ahead pup, you should get those treats out to practice the Sit/Stay you might be learning in puppy class for appropriate greetings. Or you might work on teaching your puppy to Sit in a fenced area so that a Sit can be rewarded by you taking off the leash and letting the pup run merrily to greet a friend who is there to help you train. If your puppy is of the shyer sort, you should instead work at a distance from new people at first, playing ball with her or working on her basic obedience exercises (always with positive reinforcement – the use of punishment in the form of electronic collar or chain collar corrections during puppy training is not recommended by certified animal behaviorists or veterinary behaviorists) without requiring social introductions just yet. You might also have a friend sit down and look away casually, so that your shyer puppy can be encouraged by the stranger’s less threatening position and greeting style.

If you have noticed that your pup is on the shyer side, you also should begin to associate the appearance and approach of people (or whatever makes your dog shy) with the delivery of your dog’s most valued items or activities. If your puppy loves treats, deliver a treat with a happy call of your dog’s name each time you see a person approaching. If your dog loves her tennis ball, bring it with you on outings so that she learns the ball is available when strangers are milling about. If she prefers just getting belly rubs and ear scratches, sit down with her beside the walking trail and give a luxurious 2-minute massage each time a jogger goes by. Your goal here is to teach her to be happy and excited about the thing that now makes her nervous because that thing predicts wonderful stuff for her. If you instead push this pup too far with lots of mere exposure (without systematic use of positive reinforcement and graded exposure), you risk increasing her fear levels over time.

It is important to remember that any puppy can develop fearful responding to new situations if those situations are unpredictable or overly frightening to begin with. Dogs exposed to generally stressful or overwhelming situations before they are ready, sometimes with owners’ best intentions at socialization, develop increasing fear or aggressive responding over time because the level of exposure was too much and thus did not have a calming effect. I have heard many a tale of socialization gone wrong because well-intentioned owners took their puppies to socialize at an overcrowded market, an overbearing dog park, or an overstimulating playground. In other cases, the environment might be one the pup would respond well to with repeated exposure but the owner only introduces the dog to the situation once or twice and thus does not allow the calming effect to occur over time (in behavioral language, this process is called habituation).

In sum, it’s essential to watch your dog, look for signs of relaxation and contained joy at every turn, and adjust your level of exposure in new situations to accommodate your pup. In so doing, you are well on your way to teaching him or her that the world is a blooming, bustling, beautiful place!  

 

 

 

Frightening Fireworks and Terrifying T-storms

“Crash! Whistle! Boom!” Every year on July 4th, people across the country gather to observe magnificent fireworks displays. They dazzle and excite us, causing our heart to race and our chest to pound as each boom echoes across the valley. Lucky for us, we understand that we are safe, that these displays are for our entertainment, and that their explosive power is being contained and managed.

Unfortunately, our canine companions don’t have this comforting information available to them. To many dogs, fireworks and other loud noises such as thunder are terribly frightening events. With the first distant bang or faint roll of thunder, many dogs begin to quiver, drool, pant, or whine. They may begin searching frantically for a hiding spot in a closet corner or under a bed. In extreme cases, dogs will dig through floorboards, jump from windows, and break toenails or teeth trying to break out of crates or other enclosures.

Noise phobias in dogs have some biological basis to the extent that loud, sudden noises are startling to many critters across the animal kingdom. Loud noises in nature can signal danger, such as an approaching predator. What may begin in a young dog as a mild startle response or nervous behavior can develop into full-blown distress and phobic responding over time. Noises such as thunder, fireworks, and gun shots are unpredictable to a dog, and this can create ever-escalating levels of fear, just as the inevitable but unpredictable monster jumping out in a horror movie can cause us to become increasingly anxious as we watch.       

Treating noise phobias in dogs often requires the assistance of a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist or veterinary behaviorist. In cases like this, a program of systematic desensitization and counterconditioning will be arranged for your dog. Systematic desensitization is a treatment procedure used with humans and nonhumans to treat phobias. A fear hierarchy is first developed, in which all your dog’s triggers for fear are listed in order of increasing fear provocation. For example, noise-phobic dogs may be sensitive not only to fireworks but also to household noises like popping toasters or clicking clocks. These may trigger lower levels of fear than fireworks, but would be included as the first steps of a fear hierarchy.

At each level of the fear hierarchy, the dog is presented with low levels of the triggering noise while calm behavior is rewarded with food, massage, or toy play. The dog is not presented with increasingly anxiety-provoking noises until she has been made calm at the previous stage of treatment. For example, once a noise-phobic dog has been desensitized to household noises, she might be presented with a fireworks CD playing at the lowest volume possible. The owner and CAAB work together to keep her relaxed and/or playful while the CD plays. Once she has achieved calm behavior for a period of time, the volume on the CD is gradually increased. Eventually, the noises are presented at full volume while the dog happily chases after a ball, eats bits of chicken, or rolls over for belly rubs.

Treatment for noise phobias typically requires a minimum of 6-8 weeks of treatment, and may require many months to achieve calm behavior at full noise intensity. The work required of owners is not insignificant, and regular conditioning exercises must be arranged. With this sort of commitment by pet owners, however, treatment often is successful. Although most dogs will never enjoy a 4th of July fireworks display quite like we humans do, we can work to ensure that they are happy to find a place to lay down with a bone and lick their way through Independence Day.      

 

Bringing a Second Dog into the Home

Dear Dr. Maxwell,

 I was wondering if you could give me some insight on adding a second dog to our family. In addition to our two older cats, we have a female 18-month-old rescue that we got in August. She is 50 pounds and very active (although she does seem to be settling down a bit lately.) She is also very jealous of our attention with our cats. She does things like jumping up from a nap to stand between the cats and us if we speak to them, even waking up to do this! We do want to get another female dog (not a puppy), so I have two questions: 1. What is the best way to introduce this new dog to minimize her jealousy? 2. Since she is quite active, would another active dog who could match her be best or would a more sedate dog who might calm her down some be better? Any thoughts that you have on this would be most appreciated!!

 Rene H., Lexington, VA

Dear Rene,

How wonderful of you to rescue one dog and to consider taking in a second! With so many dogs in need of homes, there is always reason for a bit of kudos to those who adopt. In terms of the match between your own dog and the potential addition, there are several things to consider. As you smartly mention, examining overall activity levels is of primary importance. Many folks decide to bring in a second dog as a friend for their first, only to discover that the two don’t get along, if not because of outright aggression then simply because one is more active, plays more roughly, has different standards in terms of personal body space, or other related issues. In fact, I have worked with many families whose first dog would most certainly have preferred to remain the only dog, so it’s smart to be asking these questions before adoption occurs.   

In general, dogs are best matched when they both display appropriate and similar canine communication signals and play styles. For example, during play, dogs should take turns being the chaser and being chased, should back off when things get too rough or vocal, and should occasionally break out of wrestling with a play bow or to sniff the ground as a calming signal to each other that they are not taking things too seriously. Ideally, each dog might occasionally be the one to roll on its back during play while the other is standing over and playfully mouthing at him or her. These play styles can be hard to teach a dog so matching based on existing play styles, especially when introducing two adult dogs, can be beneficial. One great way to assess a match for your dog is to volunteer to foster a dog through a local animal rescue or shelter. When you foster, you typically have the option to adopt the dog at any point. If it’s a match made in dog heaven as you observe them together over several weeks, then adopt! If it’s not, then you are still doing a great service by temporarily providing a homeless dog with a home environment and, ideally, some training, stability, and socialization before it moves on to its forever home.

In terms of your dog’s “jealous” tendencies, it may be that she has learned that when she interrupts the attention you are giving to the cats, you turn your attention to her instead. If she is taught that she will not receive attention when she does this, and instead receives attention when she stays in position, you should be able to turn around this policing behavior of hers. It would be helpful to see whether she has a tendency to do the same thing with a visiting dog or foster dog as well, or whether this pattern is specific to the interactions between you and your cats. Either way, this is certainly a behavior that I work with families frequently to address and one that responds well to behavioral intervention and training.

Of more concern might be whether your dog is prone to resource guarding with other animals. Does she stiffen, growl, snarl, or snap when the cats or visiting dogs approach her while she is eating, drinking, chewing a toy or bone? How about when the cats approach while she is being petted by or snuggling by you? Or when they approach her while she is resting in her favorite place? It is important to assess whether she is likely to become aggressive in order to protect her access to things she loves, like food, toys, attention, her people, or her resting places, because this sort of aggression frequently causes more serious problems in multidog homes.

If you find that your dog is high energy but friendly with other dogs, and seems to make friends with other dogs without being an annoyance to them, then your chances of finding a friend for her in a second dog are high. If you find that she tends to trigger aggression in other dogs, or becomes aggressive herself, then you may want to work with a pet behavior professional who can guide you in making a selection of a second dog or counsel you on whether she instead might do best as the only dog in your home.

What's in a Name? Teaching Name Recognition

Teaching your dog to respond to his or her name is an essential part of establishing clear lines of communication between the two of you. Whether you have a new puppy, or have just adopted an adult dog and would like to use a name of your choosing, you can begin at the same place in training and your dog can come to respond reliably to anything you would like to call her. Your goal in teaching name recognition is to have a dog who looks to you when she hears her name and waits for the next cue, or command, that you might give (for example, “Come!”) Here are some steps for teaching name recognition. 

First, choose a name! Be creative and have fun – choosing a name is one of the perks of new dog ownership! In the first weeks of your dog’s arrival, say her name in a clear, upbeat voice. As soon as she glances in your direction, for even a moment, praise with a short happy “Yes!” or “Good!” and toss her a treat. If your dog does not glance in your direction, try saying her name and crouching down at the same time. As soon as she glances in your direction, praise and treat. Practice this several times a day inside the house and in different rooms. When she is reliably looking at you in response to her name inside the house (e.g., 9 out of 10 times), practice outside in a fenced-in area or on leash. Over time, practice calling her name in more distracting and diverse situations (e.g., when visitors are over, in the presence of other dogs, while you are sitting down). Always praise happily as soon as she looks at you and extend your hand so that she knows you have a treat for her for this behavior over the first few months.

Once your dog reliably looks at you when you say her name, feel free to add the Come command (e.g., “Fluffy, Come!”) In this case, she should look at you when she hears “Fluffy!” and begin moving toward you as soon as she hears “Come!” Have a treat in your outstretched hand to prompt her in your direction, praise with “Good!” or “Yes!” as soon as she starts to move toward you, and deliver the treat when she gets to you. After your dog is reliably looking to you in response to her name, you can begin to reduce your treat schedule of reinforcement. To do this, you should continue to praise each time she looks to you (or call her to you and praise as soon as she gets to you), but begin offering a treat only about 80% of the time. After a couple of weeks of daily practice and when she continues to reliably respond to her name, reduce the treat schedule to 60% of the time, then 40%, etc. Always provide other positive consequences when she responds to her name, even if you are no longer treating it each time. Provide a game, some petting or praise, or an invitation to a walk, for example, whenever you call your dog’s name thereafter.

You should not call your dog’s name to yell at her or to do something she does not like. If you call her name and she looks at you, and then you reprimand her for having gotten into the garbage, for example, you are actually punishing her for looking at you when you say her name. This is the last behavior that occurs before your reprimand, and thus looking at you (instead of garbage stealing) gets punished. Similarly, you should not use her name when you say “No”. Although this comes very naturally for most owners, it is important to use “No” as a reprimand or a “cease and desist” command without pairing it with her name. Remember that to maintain reliable attention to you when you call her, your dog’s name should always mean to her, “When I hear my owner call my name, I should look at my owner to see what wonderful thing he or she has in store for me!”

 

Amos the Anxious Airedale

In last month’s blog post, I defined canine separation anxiety and discussed some of its characteristics. This month, I review some intervention strategies that can be used to address it.

Amos was a handsome and well-behaved 2-year-old Airedale. His owners lived in a large home with a big fenced-in yard and Amos enjoyed days full of chasing squirrels and spending time with his devoted owner Susan. Susan had taken Amos through puppy obedience classes, where he had done very well, and she tended to take him with her wherever she went for most of his first year. Because he was so calm in the car and well-behaved in public, Susan saw little reason to leave him home alone. When he was occasionally left home alone for short periods, Susan left him in the fenced-in yard and there had been no problem.

Soon after Amos’s first birthday, Susan got a full-time job. In all her focus on this new venture, she didn’t suspect that the transition would be much trouble for Amos. Amos still slept in the crate that Susan had used to help with housetraining, so she decided she would crate him while she was at work, just to be sure he wouldn’t get into any trouble. When she got home that evening, she heard Amos whining and was shocked to find him standing in his crate, soaked in drool and panting wildly. The bars on his crate door, never touched before, were now bent and chipped, and his blanket had been shredded. She let him out right away and he jumped on her, then ran in circles as she let him outside. As she cleaned up his crate area, she wondered if she had crated him for too long and decided she would try leaving him out of the crate the next day. Returning home from work the next day, she worried she had made the wrong choice when she saw only slobbery nose and paw prints all over the bay window where her Venetian blinds had been hanging that morning…

Our first task was to determine how to manage Amos in the short-term while Susan had to continue with her 40-hour work week. We knew we were looking at some weeks of behavior therapy ahead, and we needed a placement for Amos while we worked to change his behavior. We located a dog sitter who was able to keep Amos in her home while Susan was at work over the coming weeks. We then had to identify those rewarding items and activities that could be used in a behavioral intervention plan. Susan noted that Amos most loved peanut butter, dog treats, going for walks, and being by her side. We decided to utilize all of these as positive consequences for calm, independent behavior. I taught Susan to be mindful of those times when Amos was off on his own, sleeping in another room or in his open crate, and to go to him at these times and do one of the following: announce it was time for a walk and take him out, lay down with him for a 5-minute belly rub, or bring his toy and initiate a 5-minute game of chase or tug. In this way, we used Amos’s favorite activities to reward and strengthen calm, relaxed, independent behavior that occurred at a distance from Susan.

We also began daily crate desensitization sessions that involved Susan closing Amos in his crate with a toy stuffed with peanut butter and dog treats and leaving him in there while she milled about the house – out of the room but not out of the house at first. She returned within 10 or 15 minutes, before he had finished the food, and let him out of the crate, removing the food toy at the same time. When we saw that he was consistently calm and focused on his food toy while crated, she began leaving the house to walk around the yard before returning to let him out of the crate and to remove his food toy. From here, we gradually increased the duration of time he was crated with his food toy and also the distance she went from the house, having Susan first walk around the yard, then walk around the block, then sit in her car with the engine on, then take the car around the block. At each stage, our initial goal was to keep Amos excited about his food toy and to return before he lost interest in it so that he might actually be a little disappointed his mom had returned because he lost his delectable peanut butter toy!

We set up Susan’s laptop on a video chat facing Amos’s crate so that we could monitor Amos’s behavior in our absence. Soon we began extending our departures just beyond the time it took for Amos to lose interest in or finish his food. Once he finished the food, we observed that he would circle in his crate a bit and look around as if waiting for us, but he did not immediately start to whine or paw at the crate. So we returned home in time to reward this calm behavior by greeting him and letting him out of the crate before anxious behavior began.

Within 6 weeks, Susan was able to leave Amos inside the crate for up to 2 hours on evenings or weekends and saw no signs of anxiety. We then had Susan practice short outings on weekend mornings that simulated all of her workday morning routines but instead of loading Amos into the car to take him to the sitter, Susan loaded him into his crate with his food toy and left to go around the block. Success! Amos went to his food toy with excitement and was still working on it when she returned. Once we saw this successful response was sustained across sessions, we had Susan leave him for half-days during the week, coming home for lunch at first, and then for full days. All of Susan’s hard work paid off, and Amos was finally taught what pups typically learn when they are much younger – that being home alone is nothing to worry about!

 

The Secret Life of Pets

The 2016 animated hit The Secret Life of Pets opens with an entertaining montage of scenes depicting how pets behave when their owners leave for the day. As owners say good-bye and head to work, closing the doors behind them, we see the Chihuahua who promptly urinates in the houseplants, the Pug who rearranges the furniture for a day of barking at squirrels, and the stately Poodle who secretly head-bangs to heavy metal music. And we meet the main character, Max the Jack Russell, who spends his day just sitting hopefully by the door, waiting with great anticipation for the return of his beloved owner.

Comedic though it is, there are elements of truth to many of these scenarios (except perhaps the head-banging Poodle.) In fact, dogs can get themselves into all sorts of trouble when they are home alone. For some dogs, being home alone signals a “safe” time for chewing furniture, getting into the trash, or sleeping on the bed they’re not allowed on when their owners are home. Extra energy, incomplete training, and/or boredom can lead them to explore these naturally enticing activities. From the dog’s perspective, chewing that wooden chair leg, eating those yummy thrown-away pork rinds, or curling up on the softest spot in the house make perfect sense and there is no “intent” on misbehavior. These dogs should be provided with increased enrichment and exercise. They should be crated when home alone to encourage them to be relaxed and to prevent them from getting into trouble. In the same way that parents restrict the freedom given to toddlers, while allowing older children gradually more independence when outside of their supervision, dog owners can gradually begin to leave dogs home alone in larger spaces in stages as they mature.

Before we attribute any of these home-alone canine capers to extra energy, curiosity, or boredom, however, we must consider that much of the problem behavior we see when dogs are home alone is indicative of something else altogether – separation anxiety. Behavioral indicators of separation anxiety including destruction, house soiling, and barking at windows, for example, when dogs are home alone. These can often be mistaken for mere nuisance behavior, yet they stem from different sources and must be treated differently.

Like The Secret Life’s Max, many dogs’ lives revolve entirely around their humans. When their humans are with them, the world is rich with food, belly rubs, walks in the park, and snuggles on the sofa. When their humans are gone, well, things can get pretty lonely. Dogs are a highly social species. In the wild, feral dogs often live in close proximity to each other with very little fighting and will spend time curled up near each other and share common food sources (typically village trash dumps). Pups from a very young age will reflexively whimper if separated from their mother, and these cries bring the mother to them so that she can carry them back to the safety of the nesting site. In the home environment, dogs seek out physical contact and affection from us throughout their adulthood - this is one of the reasons we love them so. Because dogs bond with humans as easily as they do with their own kind, we are in a sort of substitute parenting role and separation from us can be quite upsetting.

As pups, dogs must be taught to tolerate short periods of independence at first, with those times increasing in length as they get older. For many families, this is best arranged by using the crate, which is a great help for housetraining already and can serve as a “play pen” of sorts to allow for short bouts of independence while ensuring the dog’s safety. Dogs thus can learn that being alone is safe, occurs in manageable doses, and is always followed by the owner’s return. As they mature, their owners can allow them to “graduate” to increased freedom in the house without risk of separation anxiety.

Unfortunately, for those dogs who are rarely or never left alone early in life, or who are left alone for inordinately long periods without proper arrangements to make them feel safe, being left alone can be highly distressing.  In extreme cases, these dogs can bark themselves hoarse, tear down blinds, vomit, urinate, or defecate inside the house, chew through walls, break out of locked crates, even breaking their own nails and teeth in the process. I’ve had countless clients over the years who have come home to find their dogs in puddles of their own saliva (excessive drooling is a sign of anxiety), shaking and panting profusely, or even running to greet them in the driveway, having broken through a window to escape. There is no need to exaggerate the seriousness of canine separation anxiety, as any owner who battles it can attest. 

Thankfully, there are sound, effective, and evidence-based strategies for addressing separation anxiety. Thanks to the work of applied animal behaviorists, veterinary behaviorists, and dog trainers, a series of recommendations have been coalesced that, when used in combination, often serve to reduce or eliminate separation anxiety over time. In next month’s column, I will elucidate intervention tactics for separation anxiety while discussing the case of anxious Amos the Airedale.